Conquering the Small Isles (+ Glasgow & Newcastle)...
...A trip I’ve been wanting to do since April ! Despite the wind, rain and ferry cancelation, I had an awesome adventure and would go back tomorrow - okay maybe not tomorrow but definitely again. First stop, Glasgow. Well it would’ve been if my cousin hadn’t got involved and staged a surprise visit to see family first - it was brilliant though ! Anyway, back to the trip - Glasgow. If you arrive early enough, grab some brunch at The Wilson Street Pantry - you won’t regret it ! Or alternatively (or aswell as - not judging !), Off the rails cafe next to Queen Street station does fab sandwiches, salads and other bits to takeaway (or sit in - they even have a live train departures board !). I went for a wee wander to Barras market and down through Glasgow green past the fountains and people’s palace following the River Clyde before taking a right turn back towards the station.
I caught the 12:22 Express (that is a joke you will understand after riding it !) to Mallaig & Oban - the West Highland line. The rear 2 or 4 carriages go all the way to Mallaig - at certain times they run a special carriage with dedicated bike space, better seats and panoramic windows (£10 supplement). The usual carriages are pretty basic inside but there are toilets and power sockets at every seat. Enjoyed a delicious salad half way from Sprigg (but there's a snack trolley on most train services too). Great views to be had on either side, if you want to see the lochs from above, sit on the left hand side, for mountains, right. The scenery is breathtaking and the journey is pretty relaxed, stopping at tiny stations along the way before reaching Fort William after just under 4 hours. From there, the train goes in reverse, sit on the left hand side (based on changed direction of travel) for amazing loch side and Glenfinnan viaduct vistas. It’s a short (relatively) 1.5 hours (ish) to Mallaig.
Book accommodation in advance as it sells out all the time. I stayed at the West Highland hotel which was perfect. They have basic en-suite rooms with everything you need for a nights kip or luxury rooms with hot tubs ! The food scene here is fab - the hotel has a great restaurant with a decent variety if you don’t fancy venturing out. But if you’re anything like me, it feels weird eating at the easiest option, I like a local spot or an off the beaten track find. The Cabin restaurant and takeaway serves the best haddock and chips I have ever had, made extra special with the fennel side salad and homemade tartar sauce - you can tell the fish is landed just metres away. They serve a variety of other dishes too including less fishy options. Be prepared to wait or book in advance - standing in driving rain outside was not massively enjoyable after a five and a half hour train journey. If you’re lucky enough, the next morning, get yourself down to the Mallaig Bakehouse & Crannog. I couldn’t believe how busy it was but they bake plenty to feed the constant queue. The focaccia sandwich I had was insane, one of if not the best sarnie I’ve ever munched - heritage tomatoes, whipped ricotta, salad, pesto on bubbly focaccia. I guess it’s a bit of a long way to travel for my favourite fish supper and sandwich though so I'll need to source one closer to home !
Onto the ferry (MV Loch Nevis) - Canna bound. A pretty big boat for the 5 passengers onboard - I’m told it gets much busier. The viewing deck has comfy sofas and there’s plenty of outdoor seating too if you like rain and sea spray. The onboard cafe is pretty good, freshly made filled rolls (which I can confirm are delicious), main meals (which actually look pretty good), snacks and even a wee shop. A couple of choppy hours later and onto dry land (well actually, it was pretty wet due to the torrential rain).
The accommodation options here are limited but that keeps the island quiet and special. There’s a small guesthouse, some self-catering options or the campsite, which I opted for. The answer to your question is NO, of course I didn’t pitch a tent and sleep in the rain. Canna Campsite have 2 caravans and various cabins to stay in. The West Caravan was great, with plenty of room for 4 people. It has everything you need ; a radio, binoculars, fully equipped kitchen, heaters, instant hot water, hairdryer (which came in handy for my shoes !), tea, coffee plus the lounge / dining area has great sofa seating, a fab spot to watch the sheep on one side and sea on the other. A truly picturesque setting, I’ve never woken up to a view like it. There’s a ‘locals’ barn with free hot drinks wifi and seating just a few metres away which is great, they hold community events here too from time to time.
With broken clouds appearing in the distance, I set off, walking the main path past the campsite to Tarbert bay (around 1 hour walk each way) where I had the best swim ever in the crystal clear waters - and the best bit - completely private. I’m not a nudist beach kind of person but…
A 180 turn back towards Cafe Canna (one of, if not the UK's most remote restaurant) for the best pie ever. I love the name too - ‘Full crust Canna beef, Blue Murder cheese and Skye Black ale pie’ - you just know it’s going to be epic ! They have a fantastic menu using local meat and fish (when I say local, I do mean from the tiny island), and homegrown / foraged produce, they even brew their own beer. Chocolate torte with seabuckthorn sorbet for dessert.
Time for an evening walk, there’s a path right beside the restaurant leading up through their garden and into the woods. You can link up with the path to the A’Chill cross and punishment stone. Back via the shop which is conveniently open 24/7 and takes cash, card or even Apple Pay. Back to caravan in the pitch black. With no light pollution, it gets seriously dark here - if you're lucky enough for the sky to be clear, a spot of stargazing.
The next morning’s walk was across the wooden bridge to the island of Sanday. There’s an impressive church and behind that, the islands source of power, 6 wind turbines. I followed the puffin trail walk for a bit, stopping at a rocky beach to admire the hundreds of washed up pink jellyfish and seal (singular) in the bay. Back to Cafe Canna for an equally delightful lunch of homemade bread topped with mackerel gratin.
Just in time for the 14:05 ferry to Eigg via Rum. Arriving in Eigg to the sight of the Screen machine mobile cinemawas an unexpected surprise. I hired a bike from the fantastic Eigg adventures company and it was immediately clear that this is a very different island. Owain hires out the best bikes for the terrain - Trek marlin 5s - they have electric ones too to conquer the steep hills on either side of the island.
A pleasant 20 minute cycle (3.5 miles) with great views and there it was, Lageorna. I’ve always been a bit iffy about B&Bs but am changing my opinion based on the wonderful spot that Sue has here, the photos and words will not do it justice. The rooms are spacious, spotless and the beds are the comfiest ever, I understood straight away why the couple who were in the other room had been there 4 times before. The evening meal (crafted by the host) was sublime, the love for cooking shone through in the taste of all 3 courses !
Back on the bike because when there’s a fold out cinema in the back of a lorry on a remote island, you’ve got to just do it. Such a brilliant concept but having spoken with the manager, it’s a shame that it’s no longer very popular. A rainy, windy and pitch black cycle back across the steep windy roads with a head torch was not my finest planning but another experience to add to the list. Safely back and ready to leave tomorrow, or not.
The morning brought with it rough seas, wind and you’ve guessed it, more rain. But also, an (unsurprisingly) amazing breakfast. Suitably filled, I cycled to the beach, obviously ! Just a few minutes rolling downhill and onto Lairg bay for a windy walk. Then back on the bike as far as the road would take me to check out a cool bothy, only being stopped occasionally by sheep using the roads.
With the rain easing off (ish), the Galmisdale cafe seemed an appealing spot for lunch, and I made it just ahead of the rain. Handmade fishcakes, coleslaw, salad and wedges with a view of the stormy seas. Aside from the cafe, there’s an impressive wee island shop plus some cool independent shops and an outdoor guided adventure business too.
From there, I took the mountain path to Grulin village with views of Muck and the impressive An Sgùrr peak. Down the road to Kilchoan then back up the hill to the church housing 27 Eigg artefacts - DO NOT visit at night unless you want nightmares. Past the primary school and into the Eigg museum which is sweet. Further on is the Eigg brewery then the road continues downhill - back to Lageorna for another equally delicious meal - fabulous pea and mint soup, salmon with garden vegetables and a passionfruit orange pudding. Time for that sunset swim I’d been hoping for at 8PM.
Up early, well just so I had enough time for another epic full breakfast. A heavy going cycle back to the port to catch the relief boat back to Mallaig. Arriving early gave me a chance to try out the local pool, which was unexpectedly perfect - I swam 100 lengths - a great option if you have a long wait for the train like me ! Back on the 16:04 to Glasgow Queen Street which is where I sit, writing this short but great adventure up. A night in Glasgow awaits.
I am writing the next part of this travel blog, or whatever it has become, while sitting on a Lumo express train from Newcastle to King's Cross. Let's pick up the action where we left off - arriving in Glasgow at 21:24 with a craving for pitta gyros and Greek salad - Halloumi Glasgow knocked it out of the park! Delicious food and great service allowed me to sit in and enjoy my meal after closing time - my bad.
A short walk through the city led me to The Social Hub, a great concept located in a fantastic part of the city - plenty of 'shared spaces' including pool table, table tennis, performance space, comfy seating, restaurant, bar, cafe, study space, laundry and soon to be roof top space.
I got up early to wander the surrounding streets - cool spots include Spitfire Coffee, Bare Bones Chocolate, The Dorky French vegan bakery, and Doh Doughnuts, to name a few of the many... onwards to take a city bike ride along the Clyde (well, along its banks) to the Riverside Museum - free entry with a focus on Glasgow's transport and its role in shipbuilding. Definitely worth a visit with activities for children and access to board quite a few of the old vehicles.
Outside, the Tall Ship Glenlee is impressive and totally worth an hour of your time. There's access to many of the decks, including the upper outside level. The information is fascinating, coming from someone (me) who usually gets bored reading museum information.
Back on the bike through Kelvingrove Park, passing the Kelvingrove art gallery and many old university buildings. Head up Great Western Road to try one of the many cool eateries or pop your head into a vintage clothes shop. Roots Fruits and Flowers get my shoutout, as well as Paesano Pizza, Cottonrake Bakery, Papercup Coffee, and Naked Soup, a few of many cool spots. Take a left down Byres Road, or you could head to the Botanic Gardens. Ride the tiny orange subway back towards the center, or if you're not pressed for time like I was, head to Finnieston, another really cool neighborhood. For me, the 16:10 Arbroath express was calling.
Now, an extra special extra. It seemed like a fun idea to break up the long East coast train journey. I’ve been to York already so on my return from seeing family in Arbroath, it was time for Newcastle to step up to the plate. After negotiating some interesting Sunday trains or lack of, I arrived with exactly 25 hours to see what the city had to offer. First tick, hotel Crowne Plaza , the biggest hotel room ever (!), great breakfast spread and the creme de la creme, the awesome pool, jacuzzi and steam room which I might have visited 3 times in the 25 hours I was there.
First stop, if you’re in toon on a Sunday, hit the quayside market with food and other bits, crossing Gateshead millennium bridge to visit the Baltic Centre - a free arts space with 5 levels and what looked like a pretty banging restaurant on the top floor. Interesting exhibitions currently focused on human life. From there, you can wander past or look inside the glasshouse music venue and (if open) the HWKR Food market with cool pop up street vendors and a bar.
Back across the Tyne and electric scooter time to Ouseburn district (10 minutes scooting and great if you're short on time but don't want to be short on experiences !). Kiln cafe really hit the dinner spot with their Mediterranean themed small plates while watching the potter handcrafting crockery next to me. Back on the scooter and just time for a swim and steam before bed.
Up for another swim and plentiful hotel breakfast. Then a wander up to the Grainger Market - a range of interesting food pop ups alongside traditional market stalls. Plenty of shopping to be done in the various centres and streets nearby.
Down the steps to King Edward’s Bay where I would have had a swim if the sea conditions had been slightly more appealing. Instead, to Riley’s fish shack for a superb mackerel wrap meal served with caperberry salad, fennel salad, hot plate potatoes with aioli and spicy sauce. Simply sublime food with the best view. I walked from there to long sands beach to watch the surfers then onto Cullercoats for the metro back to the centre. Just time for 1 final swim then back to the station - London bound.
A different city that’s worth the visit to see the river and coastal areas although the city centre is nothing special. Having said that, there are some nice streets with old buildings, the centre itself generally feels quite small. Worth a stop ? 100%. Now that really is the end of the writing if you're still awake…
