Christmas in Morocco !
Something a little different was on the cards to end 2024. Insulin packed and off to Gatwick we went, first, a great meal at Wondertree with a view of the runway before catching the leisurely timed afternoon Wizz air A321 to Marrakech. An interesting, somewhat chaotic arrival with a long passport queue (which moved surprisingly quickly), followed by rip off currency exchange (use an ATM) then an exit security check (supposedly for drones). The taxi system was what I’d describe as organised chaos but we were off, flying through the narrow streets and into central house hostel for a quick check in then out for food at L’mida terrace restaurant. Absolutely sublime - uncomplicated but delightful cuisine and a great way to start the trip, a moment of zen after the day’s travel. Back to the hostel for a drink and the most peaceful sleep thanks to an awesome pair of earplugs - though on that point, the hostel was really quiet.
A chilly start to the morning and down for the hostel’s breakfast offering which was pretty good. Out into the sun and the first stop, Madrasa Ben Youssef, a stunning 16th Century college with the prettiest tiles, intricate wood carvings and incredible architecture, well worth a visit.
Into the souks we went - I have to say, everyone we encountered here but across the whole trip in general was super friendly and not pushy as I had expected. We quite enjoyed a little haggling too - it’s all part of the experience. Unfortunately it’s somewhat spoiled by the mopeds speeding up and down the tiny alleyways, something which the locals we spoke to were also unhappy about. A little further and we had reached the Jemaa el-Fnaa square. Definitely an interesting place to wander, but best at night when street food vendors pop up amongst the snake charmers and monkeys ! To the Ganbara cafe for a scorching view of the Medina then to the Bak Doukalla gate we went for our food tour.
Whenever I’m away and it’s available (and not ridiculously expensive!) I try to book a food tour. To this date (and including this one), they’re always an amazing way to see and eat cities. We were met by our excellent guide with a Scottish sounding accent despite having no connection to the country - but we immediately felt at ease in his presence ! Within the city walls we went, stopping at so many spots, I lost count. Delicious homemade yoghurt, fresh pikelets with Amlou, making our own traditional sweet pastries, pancreas in a flatbread (nicer than it sounds), hot breads filled with hot sardines from the communal oven bakery, freshly squeezed OJ (the best), stewed beans, chicken breast & liver skewers (sublime !), sand coffee, mint tea, crunchy biscotti style biscuits, savoury fried pastries, various aged olives, fresh mint and other herb varieties, tangia (cooked in Hammam ashes), traditional soup, snails and finally more mint tea from a balcony area overlooking the square !
So yes, no evening meal required. But time for a dip in the pool, a cold one but a long way off the coldest water of the holiday - still, everyone seemed very impressed but not quite persuaded.
Christmas Day breakfast was at the stunning tea house 11122. A spot definitely worthy of the tagline ‘hidden gem’. It’s a cut above the norm but sitting in the garden enjoying a peaceful breakfast, you can see why. If the sun’s shining, the rooftop terrace is an elegantly designed sun trap, there’s even a shop and museum about the history of Moroccan tea.
Time for some stall hopping and shopping then an amusing chicken wrap. No it didn’t tell jokes, it was more the seating area up a sketchy makeshift step ladder situation. Back to the hostel for some pressie opening and a swim in the sun and a bake on the rooftop ! Time to explore a different part of the city towards the Jardin Majorelle (book in advance online). With more glitzy shops but still horse drawn carts at the end of the streets. Back into the centre we went, passing yet more industrious workers operating out of tiny spaces. Time for a delicious gelato from one of the very few quality spots in the city centre - Luna glacier - they even had diabetic friendly flavours so bonus points for that. On we walked, passing a women’s collective selling handcrafted garments and jewellery. Nomad was the evening spot of choice, for a slightly more contemporary take on delicious Moroccan flavours - put simply, it was awesome ! Wool hat purchased (though these are so much cheaper in Essaouira) and back we went for a Christmas day evening drink and chilly swim !
Boxing Day began with time for a final wander before checkout and for me, a freshly made hot flaky flatbread brushed with amlou - a delicious, flaky, hot, filling breakfast for the bargain price of 10 MAD (~80 pence). Taxis to the airport to get the hire car - the cab journey was enough to put anyone off driving there, that’s for sure - more on that shortly - or rather, now. With Alamo’s finest 208 acquired, we were off onto the highway to hell, first stop, Blue Ribbon bakery. The most delightful of brunches with patio heater and sunlight to accompany freshly toasted bagels with various fillings and some sweet treats for the onward journey.
Belts on and now would be a good time to play a spot of Moroccan driving bingo - police speed traps, donkeys, horses in pickups, children walking on the dual carriageway, mopeds going the wrong way - a rather stressful experience ! Cheap parking at the port (20 MAD for 24hrs ~ £2) and a short walk to La Palazzo hotel. A brilliant spot with super comfy rooms and a fantastic rooftop bar and kitchen with views of the city and sea ! An evening stroll through the non-moped filled streets, stopping at The Loft for a hearty, almost French bistro vibe dinner offering. Mint tea and bed.
A delicious breakfast to start the day. As a buffet breakfast fanatic, I was surprised to see menus on the tables. But such a great way to serve breakfast with everyone getting the same delicious spread of fresh fruit and yoghurt, homemade pancakes, warm breads, cake, jam, honey, fresh orange juice, hot drinks and then omelettes. To the beach promenade we went, with glorious sunshine warming us up, we would need to be warm ! The feel of the somewhat damp wetsuit was something I’m not used to in December ! But getting on the boards and catching waves, the joy of surfing as a younger me came flooding back. The sea was clear and very pleasant. With a very thin wetsuit, staying in for almost 2 hours was quite an achievement. Meanwhile, the other two enjoyed an excellent sounding hammam experience at the Sidi Magdoul hammam.
Back to the hotel rooftop we headed for lunch, where they offer a great range of food from tagines to smash burgers. Fully recharged, we ventured up to the 18th century fortress and onwards to L’espirit coffee shop for drinks. For me, a no nasties banana milkshake. Reaching the old town city walls, we took a left to the beach and spent a while collecting cool tile pieces, washed up on the sand, time for a little sunset beach art. Time for a browse in some very interesting little shops and then for me, some dusk shots from the beach. Dinner was at the Mandala society with its delicious meat free menu and ‘live view’ upstairs of the main street happenings below - better than the telly !
Up a little earlier for a sunrise swim - a chilly but fab start to the day before heading back for another of La Palazzo’s excellent breakfasts. First stop, the port and a walk through the buzzing fish market with huge selections of freshly caught produce. On the way out, another hat purchase from an old man knitting them on the street. Final wander via Brotherhood coffee and quiches acquired for lunch from Pumpkin.
Another sketchy drive later and into Domaine Malika we pulled up. the third and final accommodation stop and again completely different from the others. Completely 60s in style with the best fires ever. Time for a swim in the smaller heated (24c) pool, complete with counter current. And of course, we couldn’t resist the larger pool despite warnings about the low temperature. I can confirm it was freezing (below 10c !). The fire in the room, definitely warmed us up though. Time for tea, first a delicious squash soup from garden veg, then fish tagine with warm bread and to finish, an orange Panna cotta.
Another early breakfast (a bit of a theme with all my activity bookings !) before meeting our mules outside. Said was our guide for the day into the Ouirgane valley. 9 year old Walbur did a fab job and although I was a little tense with the slightly steep drops, it was great fun.
Dismounting a couple of hours later, saying cheerio to our mule friends, and waking our legs up, we headed into one of the dwellings in a small settlement damaged by a huge earthquake a few years ago. Greeted by a local family, we sat on rugs, for mint tea, homegrown and popped popcorn and nibbles. Now it was time to get cooking, 2 tagines with a very different flavour, charred aubergine dip and clay oven breads. The best part was tasting our delightful creations. With seriously full bellies we headed back to the hotel.
Chill time, swim time and then before long, dinner time, not that we needed much. mixed meat skewers on berber couscous for main and a fab lemon tart made with lemons grown in their gorgeous grounds. Just about room for a game of snooker (I won !) then more time by the fire before bedding down for our final night of the trip.
Up for the final breakfast, swim and chill in the sunshine by the pool then back on the road, thankfully a much shorter drive back to Marrakech airport. After reading about the many checks taking place here (on top of the fact they don’t accept mobile boarding passes), we arrived in plenty of time. Sadly, the plane was late but as they say, all good things have to come to an end. And with the Wizz air touching down back at Gatwick just after midnight, just 24 hours remain in 2024 !
So all in all, an absolute blast of a trip. Very reasonably priced from flights to food to accommodation. Everyone was super friendly and we felt they appreciated the trade. We wouldn’t hire a car again here, the taxi prices are pretty reasonable, just check with the hotel first so you know you’re not getting ripped off. The food really was knockout though, I felt it payed to spend time researching the best spots beforehand and overall the price isn’t much different whether you eat in a ‘local’ establishment or somewhere slightly higher end - we enjoyed a mixture of both. I would definitely advise not staying in the city for more than a few days, the hustle and bustle is great but it’s relaxing to head to the quieter coast and / or mountains. Accommodation, everything was really spot on and we couldn’t have asked for more, we also enjoyed the variety between the locations. Just 1 final photo for me to share and here it is…
